TL;DR Changing brake lines on my truck was a bigger project than I originally thought. Tips:

  • Hire someone else to do them.
  • Barring that, replace all the hoses at the same time as the lines.
  • Have a helper to make the job easier.
  • Sledgehammers are useful tools.
  • Anti-seize is your friend.
  • The bleed screws should be at the top of the calipers.

Back in June, I noticed a leak under the driver’s side of my beater truck. The liquid didn’t seem like oil or coolant, so I was puzzled. The next time I got in the truck, I noticed that the brake pedal was in a different resting position than usual. I also noticed when I pumped it that it would go further than before. I pumped the pedal a few times to build up pressure and checked under the truck again. Sure enough, more liquid was dripping out.

I eventually traced the leak to the rear supply line somewhere close to the fuel tank. Now, I had to figure out how to get it fixed. I could take it to a shop, but that would have required towing. I could also fix it myself, since the process sounded simple enough: jack up the truck, remove the wheels, remove the old brake lines, install the new brake lines, bleed the brakes, then put everything back together. I would just need a few extra tools…

There’s a saying in the computer world that goes “we do these things, not because they are easy, but because we thought they would be easy.” Two months later, I am finally able to drive (and stop) the truck safely again.

I ordered the replacement brake lines, brake pads, brake fluid, and line wrenches from the local auto parts store. I also bought a jack and two sets of jack stands from Harbor Freight. On the long weekend of the 4th of July, I started the project.

I started by jacking up the truck and removing the wheels and ran into the first problem. One of the wheels was stuck on the hub. I tried rocking the wheel back and forth. Then I started hitting the tire with a rubber mallet. The wheel did not budge. Some quick Internet searching gave me the idea to use a sledgehammer to hit the tire. It was nerve-wracking, but the wheel eventually popped loose.

After removing the wheels, I went to remove the rear brake line and realized that I needed to disconnect all the lines at the ABS module just to reach the rear line. I then thought that I should make a note of the brake line routing. So I took a picture and drew a diagram on a post-it note.

With the rear brake line loose on both ends, I attempted to remove it from the truck. It was stuck on a angle in the frame and I couldn’t get it out. I wanted to avoid bending it as much as possible, but it wouldn’t move past the frame. I ended up calling a friend to help, and he recommended detaching the bed from the frame to get better access. That’s when I realized that this was going to be a bigger project than I had anticipated.

The next day, my friend came over and brought a helper. We detached and lifted the bed off the frame. With the bed out of the way, we were able to remove the old line and get the new line in place. While we were at it, we also replaced the front supply lines and put on new calipers and pads. Many hands make light work, but it was already late in the day. So they headed out and I left the brake bleeding for the next day.

The next afternoon, my daughter sat in the driver’s seat and pumped the brake pedal while I worked the bleed screw on the rear passenger side caliper. Once fluid started coming through, I heard what sounded like a stream of liquid from the rear driver’s side. Sure enough, the connection between the rear supply line and the rear splitter hose was leaking. It was an old hose and the connection was rusted. I should have replaced it before the rest of the line was full of fluid. Now I know. But that was the end of my available time for the weekend. So the truck sat for another week in my garage.

The next week, I replaced the rear splitter hose. This time, my wife helped me bleed the brakes. As before, I started at the rear passenger side and worked my way around the truck. The pedal felt good, but I needed to put the wheels back on and test drive it to be sure.

When I started the truck, the brake pedal went to the floor, so I pumped it and built up some pressure. Then I rolled the truck back and forth in the driveway, but the pedal still felt spongy. So I parked it and looked around for leaks. Sure enough, the front passenger brake hose was leaking at the connection with the supply line. I should have replaced the old hose at the same time as the lines. Now I know. Again, it was the end of a weekend and the truck sat for another week in my garage.

I replaced that hose the next weekend and my son helped me bleed the brakes. This time, there were no leaks and it seemed like it had good pressure. Still, when I started the truck, the pedal went to the floor. I put the wheels back on, using anti-seize compound between the wheel and rotor to prevent rust lock. I was able to pump it and build some pressure. But the drive around the block showed me that I could not trust the brakes. I parked it for another week, but in front of the house this time.

The next weekend, I put the truck back on jack stands and took the wheels off. I had read some more forum posts about bleeding the brakes and realized that the calipers were on the wrong sides. The bleed screw should be at the top, above the hose connection in order for the air to rise and escape. I was already at the end of the weekend, but I wanted my garage, so I put the wheels back on and parked the truck for the week.

This past weekend, my friend came over, and we swapped the calipers. I replaced the front driver side hose while I was at it. My friend helped me bleed the brakes and this time, the pedal felt good, even after starting the truck. I put the wheels back on and took it for a drive around the block. The brakes felt good, and I was finally able to stop the truck safely. Project complete - almost 3 months later.